Salmon run on Vancouver Island - How to get Good shots while Watching Black Bears get Fat

A rather large black bear lunging after a salmon on the Quinsam River.  Taken with Sony A9II and 200-600mm at 448mm, f/6.3, 1/640s,ISO 12800

As fall approaches we wait for the first rains to help the water flow in the rivers along the coast of Vancouver Island.  This increase in water flow is one of the signals for the Pacific Salmon to start their spawn migration upstream to the locations they originally hatched.  This is not only an important time for the salmon but also for the people that live (and have lived here for well before it was ever referred to as Vancouver Island) here and also for many species of wildlife that need the salmon for their own survival.  Here on the Island, the main species I like to photograph that benefit from this abundance are the Black bears and the eagles. Of course, there are many others that directly or indirectly benefit from the salmon run.

This is then a time for nature photographers to also get out with those long lenses to try to capture some of the action.  For me this means getting out daily and walking along the river trails, quietly waiting for some interesting action to happen.  At first, I focus on capturing pretty pictures of bears, eagles, herons, mink and other animals. Once I have those in my back pocket,  I start looking for action shots and the interactions that really make a picture tell an interesting story.  Sometimes it is best to find a good location and wait for the action to come to you, other times I have to go find the action, either way if you aren't out there, you're not going to get the shot.

Brownish Black bear taken near dusk.  Taken with Sony A7RV with Sigma 500mm f5/6 at 1/2000s, f/5.6, ISO 12800.  I turned a corner and saw this bear fishing, this was one of the first few shots I got.  Luckily my camera settings were good for getting a quick and sharp image even if we could likely have reduced the shutter speed considerably and still gotten a sharp image once we had time to consider the light more.

The best time to see bears is near dark, as most black bears spend their day sleeping in a tree and only start fishing about an hour before the sunset.  While there's a higher chance of finding bears at the river's edge at this time, the small window when there's enough light to get the shot at anything less than ISO 12800 means the likelihood of getting an exciting action shot it limited.  Not all bears sleep during the day, and a few will try their luck during the day. They may be nervous of the bigger bears the fish in the evening, or much like me, they just can't sleep when they are hungry. Either way, this provides opportunities to capture shots in better light.  Higher shutter speeds and lower ISOs means a better chance at a shot that I'll be able to print and not just use for a quick social media post.  As always, there's a balance - sometimes the harsh midday sun combined with the deep shadows in the woods are challenging to capture all in one image.  Isn't that what it's all about? Trying to get the right shot, in the right light to tell an interesting story. I do have to say that with the latest camera image sensors and the improvements in noise reduction techniques, we can get much better results at high ISOs than ever before.

More light makes a significant difference in the details of the shot.  In this case I was lucky to find this bear in the afternoon but the shadows could be a challenge if it turned the wrong way.

What Lens Should I Use?

When it comes to gear, I've found a combination of lenses and settings that best work for the variable light conditions.  The best lenses I've found would be somewhere between 100-400 maximum, and if you can afford it, a large aperture of about f/2 to f/2.8.  That's out of reach for most of us, but a 70-200 f/2.8, 70-300, or 100-400 would likely do the trick in most cases.  While the 70-200 may be a little short in some cases, the extra light gathering capabilities of the f/2.8 will allow you to continue to shoot at higher shutter speeds and lower ISOs longer into the evening.  The 70-300 and 100-400 lenses that are common for each of the brands have a great range for capturing the bears up close and still being able to get the environmental shots at the wider end, but you'll find that you're often shooting at double the ISO of a f/2.8 lens which can quickly make the shots noisy.  If you can afford it, there are a couple of very good lenses that can be found.  The best in my opinion would be the 100-300 f/2.8 for Canon and the 120-300 f/2.8 for Nikon (Sigma used to have a 120-300 f/2.8 that I would love to see updated for mirrorless but that is another story).  These two lenses have both the large aperture and the versatility of range that are excellent for close conditions.

Momma black bear bringing a huge salmon over to an expectant cub.  These are the types of shots that tell a more interesting story than just a pretty portrait.   These moments I will remember for a long time thanks to these pictures.

My Photo Techniques to Capture the Best Bear Photos

Back to technique for capturing bears.  Get down low, sitting is a good position for bears.  There are 2 reasons for this.  The first has to do with being at eye level.  I think this is a well-known concept, but it really is a good way to make sure you aren't always seeing bears with their eyes looking down.  It also changes the background behind the bear so that you often get foliage instead of just water.  The second reason is more for the bears and that has to do with the fact that animals notice a person standing as much more of a threat or worry than if you were to have a smaller, lower profile.  This definitely applies to other animals and birds.  While a hide would be your best option, I've found that animals ignore you more when sitting (or lying down).  Much of this also has to do with how much movement there is and keeping fairly still without a lot of large gestures is also a good idea  This doesn't mean that the bears don't know you're there.  They likely knew about you well before you even saw them (depending on the wind and noise).  It has more to do with an animal feeling like it can continue with what it's doing without constantly looking towards you.   There are a few ways to tell if the bear is not comfortable; one is by constantly looking towards you, usually followed with a yawn.  When I see this behaviour, I back away and find a better place or even back off entirely and let them continue on their way.  Even with my more than 25-years of experience with black bears, I don't consider myself an expert and there are better forums out there that delve into this topic.  Having said that, bears have their own unique personalities, and even general tendencies in one area may not be the same for other bears in other conditions.  The bears around Campbell River are more used to fishing alongside people, but by no means does that make them tame.

When a black bear is not concerned about us photographers it may even sit and eat lunch right in front of you.  

In my experience shooting wildlife, I have a few basic camera settings that may be helpful to others. First, my in-camera set up as a starting point (on the M1 memory on camera).  I set the camera to this position before I head out as it usually will get me a first shot or two that's going to be in focus, sharp (even if moving quickly) but may be noisy depending on the light.  I set it up with auto ISO (with a maximum of 12800), 1/2000 sec shutter speed, lens set with it's most open aperture, autofocus set to animal subject tracking and wide (all focus points).  This setup is great if you happen along a situation where action is happening in front of you and you need to get a shot before you miss the moment.  This has allowed me to capture fleeting moments that I may have missed otherwise.  In these cases I may not get a perfect shot as I haven't had any time to think about composition, lighting or optimal settings, but I most often get a shot that I can use and sometimes these quick shots are the only opportunities I get with that subject.

Shadow and light are critical components of a composition and help to give a feel for the actual conditions on the river.

If you have more time with the subject, this is when you start to adjust for the "better" shot.  First I try to get a few shots at lower ISOs and with better consideration for the composition.   If you have more time or can set up prior to the animal coming to you, then there are more choices.  As I'm walking, I am always thinking about where the sun is with respect to the subject but you can't always put yourself in the best location right away.  When time does permit, the light and the environment around the subject become the next thoughts.  Most times shooting with the light behind you or to the side of the subject is better than having the sun in line with the subject (except in very specific situations where you might want a silhouette or faded look).  Many animals will be ok with you moving sideways to them in a slow manner but do keep an eye if their mannerisms change as you move.  The background behind the subject is the next consideration.  A busy background that is relatively close to the animal compared to the distance you're from the subject will often make the subject blend in.  A background that's simple will be easier to manage and bring out the subject in certain cases, but also consider if the surrounding environment is part of the story.  No one method is correct, so try different options and take multiple shots.

It was really exciting to watch this sow come down to the river with her 2 cubs.  The interaction in this case lasted a long time so I was able to get a number of interesting shots of all three and each individual as well as a number of action shots.  This doesn’t happen often but when it does I can go through most of the ideas I have been talking about here.  From the initial quick grabs to the low noise shots and then get the shots with different environmental conditions and different angles.

If you're lucky, you might even have a number of shots.  The initial quick shot of the subject (sometimes some unique action that you happened to witness), some cleaner shots of the subject, and maybe some ongoing action with camera setting that will ensure better results.  More time with the subject means that you may have a chance to make different choices around the background and the light, and if all goes well, possibly a shot or two to add to your portfolio.

Some other things to think about when out with black bears.

1. Keep the noise to a minimum mostly for the bears but also for others who may be trying to enjoy the moment.

2. Do not make fast movements if possible.  This will inevitably distract the bear from what it's doing.

3. Try not to have anything near you that smells.  Cologne/perfume and smoking are the worst as bears can smell that from a significant distance and may avoid you entirely.

4. Try not to crowd the animal.  I know it is difficult as often I will see a group of 10 or more people trying to get close enough for a shot, but if possible, it is best with 1 or 2 people at most at a distance that you will need a fairly long telephoto lens to allow for the best observations. This will also ensure the bear has a higher likelihood of going about it's business of catching fish.

5. If a bear is looking uncomfortable with your presence back away (slowly) if you can until it goes back to more normal activity. You may just have to leave that bear alone.   Not only will you not get good shots if the bear is uncomfortable, but the bear may miss an essential meal if it is concentrating on you instead of fishing.

Sometimes you don’t have to work hard to have a picture tell a story

Being able to watch these bears in this area is a fantastic way to get a better understanding of nature. My intention is to encourage others to do the same in a respectful way that minimizes direct interaction with the bears and where people remain at a safe distance.  Even though I always carry bear spray, I hope I never have to use it, particularly as a response to my own interactions with a bear.  Bear interactions in this area of Vancouver Island are inevitable if you walk regularly in nature areas. I only hope that with better understanding, and through observation, we can live with them and not feel like we need to remove them from their own territory due to our fears and ignorance.

Action shots at high ISO but a fast enough shutter speed to get a reasonably sharp image.  New noise reduction algorithms definitely help to reduce the colour noise in these shots.

Nature photography on the road - Chasing the sun (blog version) part 1.

I had a plan.  This plan was to reduce the amount of time I spend working in my real job (I am a physicist who migrated to the financial world to build computer software and systems for mathematical modeling).  If I did this right I would be able to take some long trips to do the types of photography I love in new places for extended periods.  

My plan has come to fruition, but of course not everything goes to plan the way you think it will.  I have been working on contracts that last about 18 months and then I take 6 months to do other things.  The first of these “sabbaticals” was during the pandemic and we moved ourselves from southern Ontario (where we landed for a job in Buffalo, NY) to south central British Columbia.  This in itself was a challenge as we had hoped to buy a small acreage and look towards building a tiny house as a base.  Housing and land prices skyrocketed during the pandemic so that part of the plan turned into a long term rental in the Okanagan Valley and a second 18 month contract working from home.  

With the pandemic slowing (not entirely) and travel being allowed again into the United States we decided to prepare for our next 6 month excursion by purchasing a camping trailer and a pickup truck and set out to photograph the west coasts of both British Columbia and the United States.

Ford Ranger and Arkto trailer, ready for our photo excursion.

Our journey started one month after my contract completed and we were able to close out our lease and pack everything we own into a storage container and our little trailer.  Of course the weather had plans for us that would change our well laid out plans completely.

One thing I had to learn quickly on these trips is to change the way I think about photography.  When you are shooting nature or landscapes close to home (within about 6 hours driving) you have time to understand the habitat you are in, including where you are likely to see animals or birds and the best place to be to get the shot both without disturbing the subject and ensuring an interesting photo.  You do not have that luxury when you are on the road unless you are with a guide that has that knowledge.  In most cases we are only in a location for 2 or maybe 3 days.  This usually means doing some work beforehand on the internet to see if we can figure out some good locations and then the first day is mostly about hiking the area to see for ourselves what is around and when and where we might come back for some shots.  For the landscape shots we take this can be enough to get a good location but we need to get lucky for the weather to be just right to get some good shots the next morning or evening.  For nature photography we have much the same conditions we would like to have but now we also need to get lucky and have something show up.  Often we also need to choose whether we are going to do landscape or nature since the best times of day are sunrise and sunset for both.  Although, some birds of prey are best shot in bright daylight, and that is one of my favorite things to shoot.

A pair of red-tailed hawks fighting over a hunting area.

What we do try to do is to make notes where we go, just in case we do manage to get back to those locations so that we might be able to capitalize on that knowledge when the conditions are looking good.

All that being said, when you are out each evening and morning you do still get some pretty fantastic shots.  I guess what is different is if you can come back regularly you can refine you compositions until you get what you picture in your mind, whereas currently I try to take a number of different shots relatively quickly while the light is good so that I can look at them later to decide what composition was better.

We have also been doing significantly more video in the last couple of years.  Some of this is to document our trip, but also just because video is one of the best ways to get yourself known out here on the internet, and there is so much potential in that medium.

This poses other issues, as we are shooting video while we are trying to take shots, looking at getting “B roll” that is interesting and trying to story board a cohesive video that we hope others may find interesting.  That, of course, is not just twice the work but significantly more than just trying to get out there and produce some compelling photos as I’m sure many of the YouTubers that do these type of videos will attest.

The last thing that we always need to remember is to take some time to just enjoy  the trip.  Not everything has to be around getting a good photo and we do need time to relax or to do regular daily things.  Since we do love taking photos it is sometimes difficult to remember to just relax.

Back to the trip.

The first leg of our journey was to be a month in British Columbia, starting from the Okanagan Valley to Vancouver and then over to Vancouver Island for what is usually a wet but mild November.  We were looking forward to exploring the west coast of the Island along with some treks north to check out some smaller islands and the north west coast.

Sunlight tries to penetrate the canopy

Our first stop was near Vancouver in Golden Ears Provincial Park.  The campsite was nestled under a canopy of huge evergreens with that typical west coast rainforest feel.  Beautiful mountains surrounding us, a very large creek just below feeding into a long valley lake.  In the summer this place would be completely full with campers and day hikers in from the city, but in November there was only a half dozen other people in the campground that had basic amenities of a pit toilet and not much else this time of year.

Plenty of water rushing down from the mountain in Golden Ears Provincial park.

Moss and ferns make the scene into a flood of greens

Our next stop was a campground near central Vancouver.  We were here to meet some friends, do some shopping and eat at some nice restaurants before our ferry trip across to the island.  It was also during this stay that we started to understand that we had a few leaking issues on the camper as one of those atmospheric rivers decided to descend on Vancouver.  Despite the rain is was a good layover with good friends including one I had not seen in about 40 years. Not much in the way of photography was to be done here, other that the quick shot of the Lion’s Gate Bridge as we had our morning coffee.

Lion’s Gate bridge in Vancouver with a good bit of flare from shooting into the sun.

I love ferry rides, usually I stay out on the top deck with cameras looking for coastal shots and maybe even a whale or some dolphins.  This trip was indicative of much of our time on the island as it was cold, wet, and overall uninviting.  It didn’t stop me from getting on deck for a bit to get a few shots off.  

View from the ferry on our crossing to Vancouver Island.

The eastern coast of Vancouver Island is a very interesting landscape.  You can nearly always see the coast of the mainland with white capped mountains but in between there are many smaller islands.  Many of these island are worth a trip in themselves as we have found out on previous trips.  Wildlife is more abundant on the island and especially on the coast.  The first place we camped was near Parksville where a number of resident bald eagles could be heard at any given point and the seals and sea lions are constantly poking their heads up as I try taking pictures of some of the shore birds coming in for what is left as the tide recedes.  These are some reasons that we would love to come back to some of these areas not just for photography but to find that little piece of land so that we can explore the area much more.  

Bald Eagle watching the shoreline as the tide goes out in Rathtrevor Provincial park, Parksville, BC.

Great Blue heron fishing along the coast with the BC mainland in the background.

shorebirds taking off as a wave disturbs their feeding.

Seal keeping an eye on us two legged things on the shore.

Our next trip was directly across the island to an area that has always been on my list of places to go.  Ucuelet and Tofino are rather remote but definitely a tourist destination not just for the beautiful scenery but also for the surf as a choice destination for many surfers in almost any weather.  As you can see by many of the photos this area is rich in coastal scenery and fantastic if you enjoy “long walks on a beach” with a significant other.

View from the lookout of Cox bay. The hike up to this point is quite a muddy climb but well worth it.

We stayed at the Surf Grove campground, which as the name suggests was filled with surfers waiting for the November storms to bring in the big waves. This was a great campsite for a base but can be rather expensive. This time of year the choices were few and there are not really any places to camp that are off grid on this part of the coast. Be sure to make plans ahead of time to stay in the area.

Lone surfer getting the last waves before the sun finally sets on Cox Bay beach.

Foggy morning as we walked through the trees to get to the beach, Cox Bay.

Just after sunset on Cox Bay beach, the surf was still rolling in with the rain heading our way.

Surfer getting a little air. Good practice for when I might get to see some dolphins riding the waves.

The hikes in Ucuelet should be high on any list, but the beaches along the coast especially Cox beach shouldn’t be missed.  If you are there during tourist season, there are many boat tours for marine and coastal life.  I will definitely go back hopefully with a boat at some point.

Panoramic view from Ucuelet. Looks like a fantastic area to explore by boat.

Sunset looking out to the west from Ucuelet near the lighthouse.

Our time on Vancouver Island was cut short by a weather forecast that showed not just a ton of rain but one of the coldest and snowiest Novembers on record.  With a 3 season camper we were not at all prepared for that.  

Pine martin in Goldstream provincial park just outside of Victoria.

We ended up camping in the city near Victoria, mostly a parking lot but with a great view of the harbour and our neighbours were a collection of boathouses that looked very inviting.

Our little camper trailer and the house boats on the harbour in Victoria, BC

Our best choice was to head down to Victoria, spend a bit of time again with some friends and then take the ferry to Port Angeles to start the next stage of our tour through Washington and Oregon. Our first few weeks was definitely high on the learning curve. Figuring out the ins and outs of the trailer, dealing with plenty of rain and wind, and just learning what it means to try to do photography on the road. I am finding that flexibility is going to be the key. Take the shot even if you aren’t sure it is the one. When I have been looking back at my pictures it the shot I finally decide to work on is often not the one that I thought was my best one when I was out there.

waiting for the Port Angeles ferry to start the next leg of our journey.

Go to No.fixed.plans on Youtube for our trip vlogs and a bit more footage of Vancouver Island. Hopefully we will get back to this area in the summer.